Mikan Orange Tree (Propagate)

(8/29) My Miken Orange Tree was attacked by bark beetles and ate all the bark and Cambium at the base of the tree. The tree will not die so soon, but without the Cambium it will not be able to transport nutrients and will eventually die, so I took four cuttings to grow new trees. Below is a clone I made a few months ago using the Air Layer method, but I am trying a different technique. 

I took these cutting on 25 August. They are of branches that are new. They are green, but not soft and 4-6 inches long. I removed all the leaves, except one at the top, and cut that leaf in half. I cut the end on the cutting at an angle and dipped it in rooting hormone. I placed in a small pot with potting soil, watered, and covered with a plastic bag. I place the pot in water every other day and let it absorb water and remove. It should start rooting in 3-4 weeks and ready for transplant to a larger pot.  

 

Plumeria (Propagate)

 

(8/14) I got a Y-shaped Plumeria cutting from a neighbor and was able to make two cuttings. I cut the ends at an angle and let them dry for about a week. Roots will grow from these ends directly and not from nodes like many other plants. Plumeria grow quickly from cuttings and should start to produce flowers in 2-3 years.

I placed a mesh at the bottom and filled with stones to help with drainage. You do not want mulch or other organic material at the bottom that may steal nitrogen or hold too much moister. Plumeria is a soft wood and will rot quickly.

I filled the planter with good quality potting soil with a mix of small stones.

I wet the end of the cutting.

I dipped the wet end in a rooting hormone.

I stuck the cutting in the soil 3-4 inches (8-10 cm) and watered well.

Repeated the process with the second cutting.

Plumeria

 

Plumeria is a shrub or small tree the grows typically in subtropical regions, like Mexico, South America, Florida, Caribbean and other subtropical regions. There are several species of Plumeria with different colored flowers, but what they all share is an amazing and gentle aroma. The flower's fragrance becomes stronger in the evenings to draw a particular moth that pollinates it. The verity I have is sometimes referred to as the Asian Pacific verity.

I got these cuttings from a neighbor. I cut the ends at an angle and removed the leaves, except for the very top. I will let them dry for about a week to allow the ends to heal over. I will then dip the ends in a rooting hormone and plant them in a very porous potting soil. Plumeria is very soft and susceptible to root rot, so it is important to ensure the soil drains very well. The roots do not grow from leaf nodes like many other plants, but rather from the end of the cutting. Plumeria grow quickly and you should expect a decent sized shrub in a year and a half to two years. 

Plumeria can grow quite large, but is it very delicate so strong winds can damage them easily.

Many people tend to keep Plumeria in planters and restrict their size and number of branches, like one might do with a Bonsai tree.

Malabar Spinach (Cutting)

(8/8) I took a Malabar Spinach cutting and stuck it in a planter three days ago just to see what would happen and surprised to see a leaf starting to grow.

Passion Fruit Cuttings

(7/31) My Passion Fruit cuttings are doing fine. The cuttings in the planters are around 2 weeks old and the two cuttings in the round planters are from mid-March (4 months old).

Passion Fruit Propagate

(7/12) I decided to Propagate more Passion Fruit and prepared 13 cuttings.

Herbs (Rosemary Cutting)

I started this Rosemary plant from a cutting and it is really starting to take off.

Herbs (Cool Mint) Propagate

I like Cool Mint and use it a lot, so decided to propagate more. All you need to do it take a cutting and remove all the leaves from the stem except for a few at the top. Place the stem in water and set it in a shaded location for 7-10 days until you see roots. Then simply plant it.

Ten days later

Pakuchi (Cilantro, Coriander) Propagation

We use a lot of Cilantro (Pakuchi) and I have two planters growing that were planted about three weeks apart, but wanted to begin another planter using seeds I collected and let dry.

Inside each round seed pod is actually two seeds. The seed pod can be planted directly, but it may take a few weeks for the pod to soften and the seeds to germinate, so to speed up the process I place the seeds in a towel and use a round branch or rolling pin to gently crack the seed pods. 

(5/6) I prepare the soil (1 part potting soil, 1 part manure, 1 part fine mulch) and add a little water. Not too much, just enough to make it damp. I add the seeds and mix it up and place it in the center of the towel. I tightly tie the corners of the towel and lightly water the towel. I sit in a shaded area for three days and open. The seeds should have germinated. I prepare a shallow planter using the same soil mix above, break up the mix containing the germinated seeds and sprinkle them over the planter soil and lightly cover with more soil and water. keep is a shaded area until the sprouts are 3-4 days old and then move to full sun. The plants should be ready to pick in 30 days from that point. 

Strawberry Propagation

I'm now propagating my Strawberry plants, so you can see planters sitting and hanging everywhere. I plan to propagate about 100 plants this year and hope I can get many Strawberries this year. Stay posted. 

Celery (Propagating)

I planted this Celery plant in late October from a Celery core and once I use all the ribs from this stock I will plant the core again. So, if you use one stock of Celery a month and plant a new plant every month for five months, you will have an endless supply of fresh Celery by replanting the core of the stock you used last.

I place the core in water until I can plant it, but this is not necessary. The core can be planted immediately as long as it is watered well and kept in a shaded area until new leaf growth begins. Ensure the core is planted in new soil and preferably a different planter to minimize disease and nutrient depletion.

I cut all the ribs off except for the very center. This allows the plant to focus all its energy into developing new root growth. I bury the core in the soil to around where the white line is.

Passion Fruit Propagation

I have been trying to propagate Passion Fruit vines for over a month using common techniques I researched, but kept failing; however, I finally found the cause. I was taking cuttings from newly grown vines, which were soft and not mature. Now I select older and more mature vines and they survive. 

I cut the leaf in half to minimize moister loss.

Next I scored the end to promote water intake.

Stick in the soil, water well and shade from direct sunlight until new growth begins.

(28 March) 9 days and the cuttings are doing fine. I planted a Celery core in the Center.

Strawberry (Ichigo) Plant

I have had four runners from my new Strawberry (Ichigo) plant, but I have killed the first two by pinching them down too soon. The runner to the left will probably die too, but I removed the toothpick I used to pinch it down and hope the node creates a new runner. The runner to the right is just starting to grow leaves, so will wait until they get a little larger and try to pinch it down. I should be okay with number four.

Passion Fruit Propagation

I planted two Passion fruit vines a few weeks ago and they are doing great. The vine on the left has three branches from the base and both vines are growing at a rate of 2-3 inches (5-7 cm) a day, so I need to train each branch to follow a particular rope as they grow. 

Recently, new branches have started to develop at the base of each leaf. I will let them grow for about a foot (30 cm) and will then clip it to create a clone. I intend to use these particular vines to produce clones and will transplant the clones in a different location where I can produce a lot of fruit. Also, we have a lot of typhoons here, so am certain my Passion fruit will be destroyed once or twice during the summer, so need to protect the parent plants.

(16 January) Well, I plant the clone from the about picture four days ago and the clone looks to be doing fine and starting to grow leads. Below is how I prepared the clone.

How I clone or propagate Passion Fruit vines. In order to get a true fruit from the mother, it is best to propagate using the clone method. Planting the seeds of the fruit will get genetic diversity during pollination, which may create a different tasting fruit. Sometimes better, sometimes less delicious and sometimes the same, but to make sure, clone when possible.

1. It is best to take a cutting with at least two nodes. 

2. Make sure you have the growth direction correct so it is not planted upside down. 

3. Cut the leaves, runners or flowers from the second Node.

4. Cut the vine at an angle just below the second Node to increase water intake when planted. 

5. Cut the leaves on the top Node in half to minimize moisture loss.

6. Remove any runners or flowers from the top Node. You want all the plant's energy going towards root growth generation. 

7. Plant the second Node a couple inches deep and water well and often. It will take 7-10 days for root growth to begin.

8. Use good quality potting soil to begin and do not fertilize since it might burn the delicate roots when they begin.